The Chhoser Caves of Chhoser, Upper Mustang
The Chhoser Caves sit high in the cliffs near Chhoser village, tucked into the far northeastern edge of Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang. It is one of the most remote and fascinating regions of Nepal. Just a few kilometers from the Tibetan border, this is where the high Himalayas meet the high desert.
The landscape here is unlike anywhere else—quiet, vast, and full of ancient beauty. Picture tall rocky walls, red-brown hills, and dry winds sweeping across a wide, open sky. There are no trees, no traffic, and no city buzz—just an ancient land sculpted by wind, time, and Tibetan influence.
To reach the caves from Lo Manthang, you’ve got two options. If you're up for a bit of adventure, take the 2-hour scenic trek through wild, open terrain as part of your Upper Mustang Trek. Want a quicker route? Hop on a jeep for a bumpy but thrilling 30-minute ride in your Upper Mustang 4WD Jeep Tour. Either way, the journey sets the mood for what’s waiting on the cliffs above.
Inside the Sky Cave: A 5-Story Cliffside Labyrinth
Step inside, and you’ll feel like you’ve entered a secret world carved into stone.
The Chhoser Cave rises five stories high, each level stacked like a rocky puzzle. Over 40 rooms are tucked inside this vertical maze, linked by wooden ladders, tight tunnels, and low crawl spaces. It’s easy to imagine monks, families, or travelers once moving quietly through these passages, their footsteps echoing through the dry, dusty air.
Each level tells a different story. Some ceilings are black with soot, remains of old kitchen fires. Others are tight and low, forcing you to crawl or duck. There are meditation spaces, grain storage nooks, and even ancient burial chambers—still and silent, holding secrets from long ago.
As you explore, look out the small window holes cut into the cliff face. They frame views of the Mustang landscape like paintings—endless brown hills, far-off snowy peaks, and a sky that never seems to end.
The air is cool and dry. Wooden beams groan softly as you climb. Light filters through cracks and gaps, casting strange shadows on the mud-plastered walls. It’s quiet—almost too quiet—but it pulls you in. You’re not just walking through a cave. You’re stepping through time.
Archaeology in Layers: Chhoser’s Ancient Uses Through Time
Chhoser Cave is a history book written in dust, stone, and silence—its chapters stretching across centuries.
Experts believe the Chhoser Cave is up to 2,500 years old. It stands as one of the oldest man-made structures in the Himalayas. And over those centuries, it wasn’t just used for one purpose. The cave has lived through three major eras, each one leaving its mark on the rock.
First, long before the rise of kingdoms, this cave was used as a burial site, possibly as early as 1000 BC. Human remains and burial chambers found deep inside hint at ancient funerals held in the shadows, where the spirits of the dead were laid to rest high above the ground.
Next, around the 10th century, Mustang became a battleground during Tibetan power struggles. During this time, the cave turned into a hidden fortress—a place where families escaped conflict and sought shelter. Its tight tunnels and secret rooms weren’t just clever design—they were protection.
Later, after the 1400s, peace returned to the region, and the cave took on a quieter purpose. Locals began using it for storing food, grain, and household tools, taking advantage of the dry, cool environment that helped preserve supplies for months on end. Some spaces also became places of quiet retreat, where individuals reflected and found solitude.
Archaeologists exploring the cave have uncovered incredible finds: pottery, old textiles, hand-written Buddhist manuscripts, and fading murals painted on the walls. Each piece tells a story of a people who lived, prayed, hid, and remembered—inside these very walls.
Spirituality and Significance
Far beyond being an old cave, this is a sacred space, shaped by silence and stillness.
Over the centuries, Chhoser Cave became more than shelter or storage. It turned into a spiritual sanctuary. Monks from the surrounding region came here to meditate in isolation, far from the noise of the world. Inside these stone walls, they sought peace, clarity, and a closer connection to something greater.
Walk through the cave today, and you’ll still feel that quiet energy lingering in the air. The rooms are simple, but their stillness speaks louder than words. This was a place of focus and devotion—a mountain hermitage where minds were trained to let go.
Look closely, and you might spot fading Buddhist murals on the walls—silent stories painted long ago. Some rooms still hold relics and spiritual objects left behind, humble but powerful reminders of the devotion that once filled this cave.
Chhoser isn’t just an archaeological site. It’s a living memory of Mustang’s spiritual roots. Step softly. You’re walking through a place where people didn’t just live—they reflected, prayed, and searched for meaning.
The View from the Top
Reach the upper levels of Chhoser Cave, and you’re rewarded with more than just history—you get a view that takes your breath away.
Peek through the tiny windows carved into the cliff wall, and you’ll see the whole Chhoser Valley unfold below. The land stretches wide and quiet, painted in soft browns and reds. Jagged ridges rise and fall like frozen waves, and far in the distance, snow-capped peaks shimmer under the blue sky.
There’s no hum of traffic, no buzz of crowds—just wind and silence. The stillness hits you in a way that words can’t explain. Some travelers call it peaceful. Others call it spiritual. Either way, it’s the kind of moment that stays with you.
Stand there for a while. Watch the light shift on the hills. Breathe in the dry mountain air. Let the silence settle around you.
This isn’t just a view—it’s a feeling.
Before You Go: What to Know
Permits
Upper Mustang is a restricted region, and that means special rules apply. If you want to visit Chhoser Cave, you’ll need a Restricted Area Permit (RAP). The cost is $500 for the first 10 days, and after that, it’s $50 for each extra day you stay.
Also, this isn’t a region you can explore solo. You must go through a registered trekking agency, and you’ll need a licensed guide with you at all times. These rules help protect the cultural heritage and environment of Upper Mustang—plus, they keep travelers safe in such a remote area.
Getting There
Reaching the cave is an adventure in itself, and each step brings you deeper into the high Himalayas.
Most travelers begin in Kathmandu, flying or driving to Pokhara—a relaxing lakeside city that serves as the main gateway to Nepal’s trekking regions. From there, you can either fly to Jomsom (if the weather permits) or brace for a bumpy, scenic jeep ride through winding mountain roads.
Once in Jomsom, you'll continue northward to Lo Manthang, the walled capital of Upper Mustang. This leg can also be done by jeep or as part of a multi-day trek—perfect if you want to soak in the scenery on foot.
From Lo Manthang, you’re just a short trip away from Chhoser. Hike about 2 hours through a wide, windswept landscape, or take a 30-minute jeep ride to the base of the cliffs.
What to Bring
Exploring Chhoser Cave means climbing ladders, crawling through tunnels, and walking along narrow stone ledges. So come prepared:
Headlamp or flashlight – Many rooms are pitch dark, and you’ll need your own light to explore safely.
Grippy, closed-toe shoes – The stone floors can be uneven or slick, so solid traction is a must.
Warm layers – Early mornings and evenings can get chilly, even in warmer months.
Water – There are no shops near the cave, and staying hydrated is key, especially if hiking.
Best Time to Visit
Timing your visit is key to enjoying both the views and the journey.
The best seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). These months bring clear skies, dry trails, and comfortable temperatures—ideal for hiking and photography.
Winter (December to February) transforms the landscape into a dramatic, snow-dusted world. The cave feels even more remote, but road access may be tricky due to snow or ice.
During the monsoon (June to August), the hills turn green and alive, but trails get muddy, and heavy clouds often block the big mountain views. If you don’t mind wet boots and moody skies, though, it’s still an unforgettable time to visit.
Final Thoughts
Chhoser Caves are not just old rooms carved in rock—they are stories frozen in time. Step inside, and you'll walk alongside the footsteps of those who lived, prayed, and found shelter here long ago.
Upon those cliff faces, silence doesn’t just fill the air—it speaks loudly, telling tales of courage, faith, and survival. Don’t just explore Lo Manthang. Go further, climb higher, and discover this hidden treasure that has quietly watched over Upper Mustang for thousands of years.
Some places aren’t just about history—they are alive with the spirit of those who came before. Chhoser Caves are one of those rare places.
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